An overnight hike to the top of Mount Solitary

Mount Solitary hike

This has to be one of my favorite hikes in the vicinity of Sydney. Mount Solitary is this gorgeous outcrop visible from many viewpoints near Katoomba, culminating at a 950m asl elevation.

Here are the most popular options to get to Mount Solitary:

1. as a long day from the Golden Stairs to the top of Mount Solitary

2. 2 days 1 night from either Scenic World or Golden Stairs to the top of Mount Solitary

3. 3 days 2 nights if you do the full loop from Scenic World to Scenic World via Mount Solitary and Kedumba River

I have done both the long day and the 2D1N options and would definitely recommend it as an overnight hike if the weather is right.

If you choose to do either the 2D1N or the full loop anti-clockwise you can depart either from Scenic World (also called Furber Steps) or from the Golden Stairs car park which leads to Ruined Castle.

Update: the road to the Golden Stairs Car Park was damaged during the February 2022 floods and has been closed since then – do check on the NPWS website for “Current Alerts” before going.

Mount Solitary in the distance, Sublime Point Lookout

Scenic World (Furber Steps)

From Scenic World, you have to take the steps down (the Furber Steps) all the way to the bottom of the platform where you will see some more stairs towards the left of the platform. Or if you fancy it you can actually jump on the Scenic Railway for a ride!

Once at the bottom just follow Federal Pass Trail towards the South until you reach the bottom of the Golden Stairs.

The rainforest section from Golden Stairs to Ruined Castle

Golden Stairs to Ruined Castle Campground

From the Golden Stairs car park, you have quite a number of steps down until you reach the more humid valley floor. The views along the stairs are stunning and include a few glimpses and panoramas of both the Three Sisters and Mount Solitary (where you will soon be standing!).

Gorgeous views along the Golden stairs

Once you reach the bottom of the stairs, you’ve got about an hour of walking before reaching the Ruined Castle intersection. Here you can either go right and scramble to the top of Ruined Castle where you will enjoy more views of the valley, or keep to your left to reach Ruined Castle Campground. There you will have the luxury of 2 drop-down toilets and 2 sheltered areas with rainwater tanks where you can get some shade or if raining a much needed dry rest. When we did it overnight the weather was quite moody on Day 1 and it started pouring the minute we arrived at the campground, not stopping for 45min which couldn’t have been more perfect timing!

The much appreciated shelter at Ruined Castle campground

Ruined Castle Campground to Mount Solitary

From Ruined Castle Campground you start making your way to the base of Mount Solitary. This part is fairly easy with a slight incline at the end until you reach the more scrambly part. It’s worth taking a nice break before the scramble, and make sure you keep going straight directly into the rocky part as opposed to walking left to try and contour the first scramble. I have to confess I went left both times (although in my defense it was 4 years apart!) only to realise what looked like a track was probably just lots of people making the same mistake.

Resist the temptation – Do not go left and take this “trail” which is not one

Yes, that is the correct way up – make sure you test any hold before putting all your weight on it

So from here make sure you go up and not left. I highly recommend using All Trails or a Topographic map during the trail to avoid some unnecessary back and forth. The scramble up is not overly technical but a few parts can be quite dauting and require to use your hands. Don’t hesitate to take your backpack off and slide it up or down to lift yourself up, or to pass it to the person before or after you so they can hand it to you. The best tips for the scramble are to take your time and to test the holds before putting your full weight on them. And of course don’t forget to rest whenever needed.

Amazing 360 views!

Once at the top, enjoy the view! It is simply stunning and you don’t often get such 360 views of the mountains.

Happy hiker

From the top you enter a plateau section where you will find a flat area covered in cushiony pine needles and perfect for camping. You can spend the night there or you can choose to continue for about half an hour to Chinaman’s Gully.

Our 5-star camp set up for the night

Chinaman’s Gully

At Chinaman’s Gully there are a series of sacred Aboriginal Caves to your left, and a wonderful lookout to your right – highly recommended!

After a sumptuous breakfast at Chinaman’s lookout we turned back and made our way to the Ruined Castle and back up the Golden Stairs (which felt much easier and shorter without such heavy backpacks!)

The way back – still amazed by the views

As mentioned at the beginning, another option is to do the full loop over 3 days and 2 nights, sleeping the first night at either Ruined Castle or at the top of Mt Solitary, and the second night at Kedumba River campground. I haven’t tried this option yet but I am sure it is worth is if time allows!

Whichever option you choose remember the Leave No Trace principle – whatever you bring with you on the hike, make sure you take back. And if you need to use mother nature’s wonderful toilets always follow the Leave No Trace rules.

The Three Sisters in the distance

THE NITTY GRITTY

Distance: approx. 15km return from the Golden Stairs car park to Chinaman’s Gully (19km if you start from Scenic World)

Housekeeping: there are 2 toilets at Ruined Castle Campsite – otherwise make sure you always follow the Leave No Trace principle.

Water: take heaps especially in Spring and Summer! Don’t underestimate the Australian sun and heat. It’s best to carry too much water than not enough (plus you get an extra workout for free!). If needed you can refill your water bottle at the rainwater tank in Ruined Castle Campground but 1/ the tanks might be empty if it hasn’t rained for a while and 2/ your sensitive stomach might not love it. I would recommend taking 6L per person for 2D1N if the weather is warm.

Estimated walking time: about 5-6 hours each way, depending on how comfortable you are with rock scrambling and how many photo stops or rests you take along the way

Difficulty: medium-hard, no huge amount of experience needed but definitely not for beginners or people with serious fear of heights. Grade 5 according to NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service.

Recommended gear: sturdee hiking boots, warm clothes at night (even in Summer), waterproof clothes in case of rain and if your knees are bad some hiking poles (just bear in mind these will become slighlty annoying during the scramble)

Insider tip: use All Trails! If you have the Pro version make sure you download the map beforehand, and if not take heaps of screenshots before the hike. If the track doesn’t feel right at some point, don’t hesitate to go back until you find a better option.

Mount Solitary Loop map (3D2N) – Courtesy of NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service

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